The Perfect Ending

No trip to India is ever complete without a visit to Agra...well, maybe not the city of Agra itself. You could probably skip Agra and be okay. In fact, all the industrial factories in Agra make the city an ideal place to miss.

Except for one, tiny detail.

Agra is home to the Taj Mahal, the architectural wonder of India, the place even every Indian must travel to see. Granted, when entry only costs 25 rupees for an Indian (versus the 750 rupees for a foreigner, which is about $15 USD), not going would be like, well, not using all your diabetic Frosty coupons. Crazy!



This was our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. At 10 o'clock at night. No, the Taj Mahal isn't located in Antarctica; this photo was taken using a 15 second exposure time, allowing the camera's sensor to absorb enough light to produce this shot. Also, since 15 seconds is a long time to hold a camera without shaking it (1/20th of a second is hard enough), the camera was set on the balcony ledge, which accounts for the slight tilt you see.



We woke early to see the Taj Mahal in the morning light, and to miss some of the crowds that can arrive later in the day (people who take a day trip down from Delhi to see the greatest monument to love). Once you pay your entrance fee and pass through security, you enter an outer courtyard. No need to rush the experience. This amazing structure is simply the gateway to see the Taj Mahal.



And there it was. The Taj Mahal. This most amazing structure...with scaffolding on the front of it. This sight we had saved till the end of our trip had scaffolding on the front of it. And if that wasn't enough, if you look along the right side, there is a bench suspended by ropes. Something similar to what a window washer might use on a skyscraper.



But no scaffolding was going to keep us down. We still got our picture taken in front of the Taj Mahal. It seems that a large number of people might actually make a living doing this. Or they might just do it to supplement their income, seeing as one man, shortly after offering to take our picture, went back to trimming the hedges.



Agra is more then a one trick pony. It's just that one trick is so good, the other tricks are often overlooked in the process. Agra Fort is a rather remarkable fort, having housed multiple emperors who each added their own little touches. This is also where the emperor who built the Taj Mahal was imprisoned for the last 6 years of his life, after he was overthrown by his son. From here, he was only able to gaze out the window and see his creation in the distance.



Without the crowds, the photographers and the restrictions, the Baby Taj is a more enjoyable sight to visit then the Taj Mahal. This structure was an inspiration for the Taj Mahal.



Like the Taj Mahal, the Baby Taj is a tomb. Unlike the Taj Mahal, we were permitted to take photos inside the Baby Taj.



Where the Baby Taj most outdoes the Taj is in the stonework. There are an incredible number of stone patterns all throughout the Baby Taj. Just in this one corner of the building, you can find at least 6 different patterns. A geometry teacher's dream...



Yet the Taj Mahal is still a remarkable building, with a grandeur that is second to none. We went around to the riverbank on the backside of the Taj Mahal where, at no charge, and with no scaffolding, we were able to watch the light of the setting sun reflect off the white marble.



It was a perfect ending to our India experience.

Delhi, New and Old

One of our last stops in India was the capital city of Delhi. It is a sprawling city that has an amazing history of both political achievement and tragedy.



The President's Palace, Parliament, and a variety of other government buildings are located in Delhi.



There are also the swarming, cramped streets of Old Delhi, with millions of people moving through the streets. Watching the scene pass by while riding in a pedal-rickshaw, it's amazing to think that only 25% of India's 1.1 billion people live in urban settings.



And yet, among all the millions of people, we still manage to stand out. In India, people have no shame when staring, particularly at Jessica. Once, a man on a bicycle passed us, then turned his head completely around to watch us for nearly a half-block instead of the road. Here, as happened on numerous occasions, someone wanted her picture. Granted, the silly pink gown she had to wear to enter the mosque probably didn't help either.



We went to the top of a minaret in the largest mosque in India. It gave us a 360 degree view of the sprawling city, and a nice aerial view of the courtyard as well.



We also visited the site where Gandhi was assassinated. The museum enables visitors to relive Gandhi's last few moments, walking beside his footsteps.



Here are Gandhi's final few steps and the location where he fell after being shot three times. A Hindu extremist killed Gandhi because of Gandhi's ideas about India and Pakistan; Gandhi strongly supported the idea of one united India which would include both Hindus and Muslims, while many believed that separate Hindu India and Muslim Pakistan states should be created.



We were in Delhi for Holi, the Festival of Color, which celebrates the arrival of spring. During this festival, people go out and throw color on each other. This color is in the form of powders or liquid dyes which are often made of chemicals that can not only burn the skin, but stain your hair and skin for months. When asking people about what should we do to celebrate, most people suggested locking our doors and staying inside. It would have been impossible for us to walk around and observe; someone (or a large group of someones) would have definitely approached us with paint. And as appealing as it sounds, Jessica didn't want to look green or pink the rest of the trip (sorry, we know this would have made for some more interesting pictures here on out). So instead we decided to celebrate at the American Embassy, where they had a safe celebration using natural dyes and waterguns. Lots of water guns.



Shortly after the time we arrived, many people had already run out of color to throw. Instead, they resorted to a water gun fight. Ten minutes after this picture was taken, Justin had been attacked by multiple kids and was completely soaked.



Finally, we couldn't resist this including this shot of Justin doing what he does best: taking all signs literally. We came across this sign at the Lodi Gardens, which has beautiful grounds and several tombs.

Heading to Egypt

We are leaving in just a few hours to fly to Cairo, Egypt. We still have many incredible pictures and experiences to share from our last week in India, especially of our time in Delhi for the Festival of Colors, also known as Holi, and visiting the Taj Mahal.

India has left an indelible impression on both of us, and we are still sorting through the incredible range of sights and sounds we experienced during our five weeks traveling across the country. One of our earliest and most profound revelations, one which we are still trying to grasp and come to terms with, is the great contrast we encountered between the vibrant culture, the historic and majestic sights, as well as the heart-wrenching poverty. This dichotomy was the most overwhelming and most unexpected part of our travels here.

It is difficult, if not impossible, for us to imagine the extent of the impact of such immense poverty on a nation, particularly on its children. This timely article provides a window into some of the challenges the country faces, particularly in regards to malnutrition.

We'll be in touch as soon as we land in Cairo. Thanks to everyone for reading about our travels and sharing your ideas, humor, and love.

In the Jungle, the Mighty Jungle...

After our tour of Rajasthan, we traveled to the Corbett National Park. It is India's oldest national park, founded in 1936 by the legendary tiger hunter Jim Corbett. Tiger poaching is an enormous problem throughout India, and Corbett is the only park in India where the number of tigers has actually increased over the past 30 years. We were told that the tiger population throughout the country has decreased by as much as 70% over the past ten years.



While we were visiting Corbett, we stayed inside the park in a dormitory-style cabin. There were no restrooms in the cabin; instead, we had to walk outside to use toilets, sinks, and showers. One evening, right before sunset, Jessica was walking from the cabin toward the bathrooms. Indian restrooms are different from Western restrooms: most notably, the toilets are not raised but instead require you to squat, and Indians do not use toilet paper but rinse their bodies after using the restroom. So, many foreigners who are accustomed to using toilet paper often carry it with them while they travel. That night, Jessica walked to the bathroom carrying a roll of toilet paper in a cellophane bag. A large number of monkeys were also outside the cabin at that time, and apparently they were hungry. One of the largest monkeys walked in front of Jessica on the sidewalk, bared its teeth (showing its aggressiveness), and began hissing. It had spotted the toilet paper she was carrying and thought it was food, since many people feed the monkeys. She stopped, and the monkey began galloping towards her, hissing more loudly and biting. At this point, she wasn't really sure what to do, so she immediately turned around and started walking (very quickly) the other direction. You don't really want to get into a confrontation with monkeys, especially because they are so aggressive and also carry many diseases, including rabies. Luckily, Jessica hasn't started foaming at the mouth yet. We'll keep you posted.




A more tender side of the monkey. This is actually a langur (or black face) monkey, which are generally less aggressive.



People are actually not allowed to walk around the park, so you have to hire a car and driver to take you everywhere. Why can't you walk around the park? Because Tony the Tiger says, "They're grrrreat!"



What's that coming over the hill? Is it a boulder? Is it a bus? NO! It's an elephant!



Corbett is also a popular destination for birders, since there are over 300 different species in the park, including many migratory birds that stop by in February/March. This is one of them. Isn't it cute?



When in the park, people go out either in the early morning or in the late afternoon because these are the best times to spot a tiger. At those times, tigers and other animals travel through the forest to drink from the river. The mornings were particularly picturesque, with a mist rising off the river to cover the land, filtering the light of the rising sun.



This is a spotted deer. This begs the question, if we did not spot the spotted deer, would the deer still be spotted?



Never has a bark been so much worse then a bite, as the barking deer is both a skittish and solitary creature. Every time we heard the barking, we had to remind ourselves that there are no dogs in this park.

Elephants are the big herbivores in the park. Having no natural enemies as adults, they seemed to lumber around knowing there was little risk. Even in a battle between a charging elephant and a jeep, the jeep is quick to find an alternative route.

The sun setting over the peaceful park without the usual urban assault on the senses.

Our last morning in the park we traveled by elephant, whose padded feet make nearly no noise. The light passing through the trees reminded us that there is no more spiritual an experience then existing with nature.

This was the elephant whose broad back managed to carry 5 people through the morning jungle. Yet it seemed to matter little, as she would stop to rip down large branches to munch on. Watching her consume some much with so little effort, we were thankful this amazing animal is a herbivore.

While camped out in our jeep, waiting for a tiger to appear, we thought we might finally get lucky. These two deers jumped, as if startled by some large beast, but shortly after this picture was taken they settled down in the river.



This is a pretty bird. If you look closely, you'll see the tiger in the background.

Just kidding.



On our way out of the park, we saw these crocodiles bathing in the sun by the river.

Ultimately, we didn't see any tigers in the tiger reserve (as you can see, however, the other wildlife was amazing). Jessica thinks all the park rangers go out every morning and make paw prints in the road and pretend they are tiger tracks. She also thinks they hire actors as tourists to tell their stories of seeing tigers, including one group who (allegedly) saw a mother tiger with her three cubs. We may have to return for further investigation...

Udaipur - The making of "Octopussy"

That's right, Octopussy was filmed in in the wondrous city of Udaipur. That is, the James Bond movie Octopussy. If you thought it was any other kind of film, maybe you should consider a little more diversity in your movie collection. Anyway, we have yet to see the film, but much of Udaipur is featured, with the Lake Palace pictured in the previous post playing a central role. But enough of that, let's go for a little tour!

The queen entering her palace. Note the "no trumpet" sign. Which actually means no car horn. But the "more cowbell" sign is just beyond the gate.

Inside the City Palace, there are walls. Like this one. The palace was actually built by three different maharajas. Because of this, there are noticable differences in the various stages of the palace, although they are all constructed in a style typical of other Rajasthani palaces.

Near the City Palace was a temple with detailed carving similar to what we had seen earlier in our trip at the Jain temples at the Ellora Caves. The Jagdish Temple is an Indo-Aryan temple built in 1651 and contains a black stone image of Vishnu.

Next, we took a quick hike up the Great Wall of China! Wait, that's not right. It's actually the Not-So-Great-Wall-of-India. And we didn't hike it; we took a cable car ride up to the summit.

This is the view from the top. As you can see, Udaipur is a small town. Its population is about a half million people.

We can't believe the lengths people will go to get cable TV these days.

A serene sunset over Lake Pichola. The maharaja who founded Udaipur actually flooded one of the nearby villages to expand the lake. It often dries up, however, and while we were visiting the water level was extremely low. We considered "Jesus-ing" it to the Lake Palace. But we figured we already get enough attention as foreigners.

While walking back through the palace grounds after sunset, we came across a sound and light show that is held there every evening and explains the city's history. The romantic sights and sounds of Udaipur marked the end to our tour of Rajasthan.

We're such a tease!

We've left the Corbett National Park and have plenty of stories to tell. You're going to have to wait, however. The suspense is probably going to be difficult to bear. So in the meantime, here are photos from our last two stops.



This is the Lake Palace in the city of Udaipur, our last stop in Rajasthan.



While they look cute, monkeys can attack at will. Or so we learned at the Corbett National Park. Don't be taken in by their cute eyes and innocent expressions; if you have food, toilet paper, or anything shiny, they will take it. At any cost.

We're taking a train back to Delhi tonight and will post more about our adventures these past few days, as well as the Indian holiday Holi, soon! This is our last week in India, but before we go, we will be heading to Agra to see the Taj Mahal.

P.S. We've enjoyed the bit of infighting in our blog comments. If you haven't read them, make sure you do (and add your own)! We changed the settings on our blog so that anyone can leave comments without a Google or Blogger account (just select the "Name/URL" option and enter your name). Thanks to all of you for reading!

Crouching Tiger, Missing Honeymooners!

We're off to the Corbett Tiger Reserve for a few days! It is named after Jim Corbett, a famous tiger enthusiast who used to hunt down tigers who had a liking for human flesh. Unfortunately, he passed away, so next time you see Justin, he may be missing an arm. Jessica, on the other hand, will be fine, seeing as these tigers are just "man-eaters." Unfortunately, while Monkey-Fi is very common, it is also unreliable, so we'll post an update and pictures as soon as we find a baboon (or Wi-Fi).